Textiles and Text Edited by Maria Hayward and Elizabeth Kramer
	This publication focuses on the interrelationship between archival and bibliographic research and the study of extant objects. Papers consider how archival and bibliographic research can inform our knowledge of textiles and dress, in terms of their production, consumption, dissemination and deterioration and in turn, how the study of extant objects can give added depth to this analysis. The authors include conservators, curators, historians and conservation scientists. These postprints are the third in a series of three volumes of papers emanating from the conferences of the AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies, Textile Conservation Centre, University of the Southampton, and published by Archetype Publications. The themes for the preceding volumes are: • Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles: Informing Preservation, Display and Interpretation (published by Archetype 2005) • The Future of the 20th Century: Collecting, Interpreting and Conserving Modern Materials (published by Archetype 2006) Contents Foreword Maria Hayward Introduction Elizabeth Kramer Into the archive Researching the domestic interior: the example of the ‘Chintz Lady’, Elsie de Wolfe Penny Sparke ‘I have bought cloth for you and will deliver it myself’: using documentary sources in the analysis of the archaeological textile finds from Quseir al-Qadim, Egypt Fiona J.L. Handley What Essex man wore: an investigation into Elizabethan dress recorded in wills 1558 to 1603 Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies Abundant images and scant text: reading textile pattern books Philip A. Sykas Recovering identity: the role of textual evidence in identifying forgotten azlon fibres from the mid-20th century Mary Brooks Adopting other strategies, using other sources ‘Wherein Taylors may finde out new fashions’: constructing the Costume Research Image Library (CRIL) Jane Malcolm-Davies Unlocking one facet of Henry VIII’s wardrobe: an investigation of the base Maria Hayward A portrait, two dresses, two samplers and a burning steamship Edward F. Maeder (Ad)Dressing the century: fashionability and floral frocks Jo Turney Sound recording and text creation: oral history and the Deliberately Concealed Garments Project Dinah Eastop Uncovering institutions Late medieval Ladies of the Garter, 1348–1509: fact or fiction? Shelagh Mitchell Lace and documents: the Istituzioni di Ricovero e Educazione (IRE) collections in Venice Isabella Campagnol Fabretti Undated, unattributable and unfinished: forgotten samplers and their re-evaluation through archival research Joyce A. Taylor Dawson Tracing textiles in trade: from account books to patents Fashioning the Tudor court Cinzia Maria Sicca Costume at the court of Cosimo and Eleonora de Medici: on fashion and Florentine textile production Bruna Niccoli Bought, stolen, bequeathed, preserved: sources for the study of 18th-century petticoats Clare Rose Analysing patents and objects: a preliminary investigation into the crinolines of W.S. Thomson Katy May Patents as a source of information about synthetic textile dyes Rosemary M. Baker The interaction between East and West A paradise of pretty girls: the kimono and perceptions of Japan Elizabeth Kramer Dragon robes and prairie ladies: the incongruity between archives and artefacts Julia Petrov Chasing the dragon: researching Chinese textiles in early 20th-century domestic interiors Sarah Cheang Domesticity and gender explored and challenged ‘A Linnen Pockett a prayer Book and five keys’: approaches to a history of women’s tie-on pockets Barbara Burman The antimacassar in fact and fiction: how textual resources reveal a domestic textile Alice McEwan ‘Inoffensively feminine’: First World War military concert parties, female impersonators and their costumes Sarah Norris Inspiring textile collections: textiles and text combined in Winchester School of Art Library and in the Special Collections, Hartley Library, University of Southampton Libraries Linda Newington Collaborative approaches: curators, conservators and dress historians Thistles and Thrissels: Scottish Covenanting flags of the 17th and early 18th century George Dalgleish and Lynn McClean Dye analysis, textiles and text: unravelling the puzzle of Queen Charlotte’s state bed Maria Jordan and Mika Takami Joining forces: the intersection of two replica garments Hilary Davidson and Anna Hodson Information uncovered by conservation Understanding the full story: acknowledging intimate interactions of textiles and text as both help and hindrance for preservation Cordelia Rogerson The interaction of textile and text: the conservation of a mid-16th-century chemise binding Maria Hayward The investigation and documentation of a communion table carpet in Corpus Christi College, Oxford Florence Maskell Who put the text in textiles? Deciphering text hidden within a 1718 coverlet: documentation of papers hidden within an early 18th-century coverlet using transmitted light photography Karen N. Thompson and Michael Halliwell Jewish ceremonial textiles and the Torah: exploring conservation practices in relation to ritual textiles associated with holy texts Bernice Morris and Mary M. Brooks A flag’s life in New York: The New York State Battle Flag Preservation Project Sarah C. Stevens Objects without documentation: the role of conservation science in revealing more about these artefacts Collecting a near infrared spectral database of modern textiles for use of on-site characterisation Emma Richardson, Graham Martin and Paul Wyeth Photodegradation of Phormium tenax fibres: the role of naturally occurring coumarins Gerald J. Smith, Raukura Chadwick, Ngaire Konese, Sue Scheele, Stephen E. Tauwhare and Roderick J. Weston Published 2007
	ISBN: 9781904982265	£47.50 / $95.00
	Paperback 268 Pages 140 colour, 173 half-tones Illustrations
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