Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles Edited by Rob Janaway and Paul Wyeth
	This book contains papers from the first annual conference of the AHRB Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies in Winchester. 'Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles' was held at Winchester School of Art between 13 and 15 July 2004. The main theme of the conference was the characterisation of ancient and historic textile materials for informed conservation and display, and enhanced understanding. Topics included identification of textile materials, assessment of textile deterioration, characterisation of fibre behaviour, non-destructive monitoring of ageing, and evaluating risks of conservation and display. Dr Paul Wyeth, Lecturer in Conservation Science and the conference organiser, commented: 'Historic textiles represent a hugely important part of material culture; they provide rich evidence of social history, international trade, agricultural development, artistic trends and technological progress. Analytical science can play a major role in ensuring the appropriate interpretation, essential preservation and continued enjoyment of such cultural heritage. The textile conference brought together over 100 delegates from diverse disciplines to share their recent experience and knowledge of the area. Contents Foreword Rob Janaway and Paul Wyeth Conference report Rosie M. Baker and Sarah L. McNett Identification and deterioration of textile materials Materials analysis: tecniques and the value of analysis in the context of textile conservation Scientific analysis in the identification of textile materials Fenella France Billowing silk and bendable binders: Is flexibility the key to understanding banner behaviour? Cordelia Rogerson and Frances Lennard “Net” what it seems! The impact of detailed research and analysis on the approaches to the conservation of two early 19th Century machine made silk net dresses Paul Garside and Sarah Howard The technical analysis of two pieces of 17th-century English embroidery Maarten van Bommel, Jan Carlson, Jennifer Mass and Anna Peranteau Natural fibre deterioration: microstructural and chemical changes consequent upon ageing Degradation and stabilisation of cellulosic materials Matija Strlic and Jana Kolar Surveying silk fibre degradation by crystallinity determination: A study on the Tang-Dynasty silk treasure from Famen temple, China Susanne Greiff, Hartmut Kutzke, Sophia Lahlil, Christian Riekel and Paul Wyeth Studies on ancient Japanese silk fibres using FTIR microscopy Yoshiko Sasaki and Masanori Sato Archaeological textiles Optical and scanning electron microscopy techniques for the identification of hair fibres from Roman-Egyptian textiles Jane Batcheller The effect of accelerated ageing on properties of Egyptian cotton textiles treated with fungicides Omar Abdel-Kareem and S. Samaha Learning from the present and the past Recognising textiles at risk: analysis for informing collection care; surrogates and accelerated versus natural ageing Prioritising interventive treatments for textile materials David Howell Characterisation of metal threads in Renaissance tapestries Anne-Marei Hacke,Alan Brown and Christopher M. Carr A survey of the most common support methods used on historical costumes and a preliminary investigation of tests assessing the quality of conserved fabrics Johanna Nilsson Enabling the legacy: opportunities for analysis provided by conservation; making reference information accessible The development of a Web-accessible reference library of deteriorated fibres using digital images and image analysis Jane Merritt Digital microscopy and applications of digital image analysis for the study of textile fibres Judy Bischoff and Anne Murray A model for technical analysis of flags Fonda Ghiardi Thomsen Characterising and monitoring textiles Physical properties and the consequences of ageing: mechanical behaviour of aged fibres and associated measurement methodology Accelerated ageing of fabric supports: Is it possible? Christina Young Assessing the physical state of the Fore-topsail of HMS Victory Paul Garside and Paul Wyeth Monitoring of damage to historic tapestries: the application of dynamic mechanical thermal analysis to model and historic tapestries Marianne Odlyha, Quanyu Wang, Gary M. Foster, Jaco de Groot, Michael Horton and Laurent Bozech Markers of deterioration: indirect condition monitoring and non-destructive techniques Signatures of ageing: correlations with behaviour Size exclusion chromatography as a tool for monitoring silk degradation in historic tapestries Kathryn Hallett and David Howell Identification and condition evaluation of deteriorated protein fibres at the sub-microgram level by calibrated amino acid analysis Ina Vanden Berghe and Jan Wouters Annotating Textile Biographies Hidden details: textiles with tales and revelatory methodology Informing textile and wildlife conservation: DNA Analysis of baleen from an 18th-century garment found deliberately concealed in a building Jane Merritt New insights into textiles: The potential of X-radiography as an investigative technique Mary M. Brooks ans Sonia A. O'Connor An initial exploration of the benefits of using transmitted visible light and infrared photography to access information concealed within multi-layered textiles Michael Halliwell and Karen Thompson Molecular evidence: dye analysis leading to enhanced understanding historic of dyeing practices Understanding historic dyeing technology: a multifaceted approach Ina Vanden Berghe, Bertriz Devia and Jan Wouters Chromatographic Analyses of selected historic dyeings from ancient Israel Zvi Koren Historical and analytical research of the dyes in early Scottish tartans Hugh Cheape and Anita Quye The application of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry and accelerated light ageing for the analytical identification of yellow flavonoid dyes in historical tapestries Alison Hulme, Hamish McNab, David Peggie and Anita Quye Poster section Physical and chemical characterisation of deteriorated Coptic Egyptian textiles using non-destructive methods Omar Abdel-Kareem and Khaled El-Nagar Raman microspectroscopy interrogating 19th and 20th century painted Trades Union banners Averil MacDonald, Cordelia Rogerson and Paul Wyeth Understanding the economic influence of the dyeing industry in Pompeii through the application of experimental archaeology and thermodynamics Heather Hopkins, Lorna Willimot, Rob Janaway, Damian Robinson and Bill Seale Art or science? Reflections on the work of preparing textiles for exhibition Irene Skals Analysis, identification and deterioration aspects of metallic threads Wafaa Mohamed Studies on dyeing with cochineal and ageing of dyed fabric Harby Ezz Eldeen Hassan, Khaled El-Nagar and Yassin Zidan Analytical and microscopy techniques used in investigative conservation for an archaeological cap unearthed from Canterbury , England Meg Chuping Wang Yellow dyes in Japanese kimono Mie Ishii and Masako Saito Published 2005
	ISBN: 1873132794	£37.50 / $65.00
	Paperback 266 Pages 120 B&W 20 Colour Illustrations
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